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The Banda group, about 100 miles southeast
of Ambon, consists of three larger islands
and seven smaller ones, perched on the rim
of Indonesia's deepest sea, the Banda Sea. The seas around
Banda host the famous Maluku Sea Gardens
with their bright corals and colorful fish
darting through the crystal-clear waters. The Banda Sea is believed to have the
highest volume and largest diversity of big
fish in Indonesia. The Banda Islands consist
of a group of 10 small volcanic outcrops in
Maluku Province with approximately 15,000
inhabitants.
Today this tropical idyll might be coveted
for its large pelagic fish and spectacular
diving and snorkeling on some of the world’s
healthiest coral reefs, but historically the isles also
have a rich albeit turbulent past.
The original spice-islands before
Zanzibar became famous, the Banda
archipelago was one of the most sought after
destinations on earth for its cloves
and up until the middle of the 19th century,
as the only place to acquire nutmeg and
mace. Once fervently sought by Columbus and
Marco Polo, the islands were eventually
colonised by the Dutch and Portuguese which
afforded it with its violent colonial
history.
Now the dramatic drop offs, remarkable hard
coral formations and fast currents make for
an utterly spectacular dive with great
visibility. Apart from the special critter
sites around Ambon Bay, an abundance of
turtles, big lobsters, rays, sharks,
Napoleon wrasse, groupers, large tuna and
schools of jacks are a common sight in the
Bandan Sea and surrounds. Massive islands
such as Halmahera remain largely unexplored
with stunning dive sites being discovered
every day.
The abundance of dogtooth tuna and mobula
rays is worth emphasis. Most sites host
enormous schools of fusiliers and thousands
of redtooth triggerfish and alternatively
you can enter the microcosm of prolific
mandarin fish and the native Ambon
scorpionfish. Cetaceans are frequent and
spinner dolphins, orcas, and various whale
species, including melonhead, pilot, blue,
and humpback whales, are often sighted.
Seeing both the big fish as well as the
colourfully detailed reef world is a
certainty.
Many visitors to the Banda
Sea isles are typically as interested in the
rich history and spectacular surroundings as
the remarkable diving sites, rewarding
deep-sea tuna fishing and sunset strolls
along the endless stretches of beach. But
broadly speaking, the real beauty of diving
in the Banda Islands is the immense variety
and volumes of both large and small fish
species. The Banda Seas area is best suited
to more advanced divers.
HALMAHERA ISLAND is
separated by Terenate to the east by a
narrow strait. Forest-clad and mountainous
with white sandy coastlines, its spectacular
Mount Mamuya (930 m) still sporadically
hurls burning lava heavenward. Pearl oyster
breeding farms on Mangaliho Island are a
short boat ride away. Remote North Halmahera
consists of 76 islands of which 19 have not
yet been named.. Each small island is a
tropical idyll in its own right with white
beaches, beautiful sea gardens with abundant
sea-life and a traditional farmer-fishermen
culture. Historical World War II sites can
also be found in this region.
Ambon: A busy
little port of markets and small local
business concerns, it hosts a variety of
restaurants serving a wide selection of food
from local Indonesian to traditional Malukan
“papeda” and sweet potato. One of the best
beaches in the area, Namalatu, lies just
16kms to the south of the town with its
excellent coral shallows for snorkeling and
a 20kms journey from the town will take you
to Poka-rumahtiga beach where you can
experience village life and watch a local
canoeing competitions. The more culturally
inclined can pop into the Commonwealth
War Museum set in lush tropical gardens
at Siwa Lima some 20 minutes from town which
highlights the region’s fascinating history.
Or you can visit the many churches such as
the impressive cathedral or Maranatha
Church.
Banda Neira is the main settlement in
the Banda Islands with its crumbling
colonial Dutch façade of fading grandeur and
bustling local market where variant local
hues, aromas and characters converge. Roads
exist but carry few cars. Other islands such
as Banda Besar are characterized by rugged,
mountainous interiors with small
developments spread about the shoreline.
With tourism still in its infancy, you may
well find yourself the main attraction –
dragged unceremoniously onto the dance floor
during a “dangdut” party to shake your
bootie to the intoxication Arabic/house
music fusion popular with the local folk.
Dining options are restricted to a
few small restaurants serving tasty local
fare. Those expecting a Starbucks might want
to give Banda Neira a wide berth.
A unique diving experience
is presented by the crystal clear waters of
Gunung Api – an isolated, sulpher-spewing
(above and below water) volcanic peak rising
from the middle of the Banda Sea. Here you
can float around amongst a multitude of
beautiful banded kraits (non-aggressive sea
snakes).
At Lucipara the five tiny atolls lying
across a 3 km stretch in the heart of the
Banda Sea, are actually the peaks of
underwater mountains rising up from the sea
bed and is the setting for nesting green
turtles. The highlight (so to speak) during
night dives, is the rare Photoblepheron
bandanesis – more commonly known as the
“flashlight fish”. But the sheer drop offs
are excellent for day dives and snorkeling
too.
Diving Season &
Information
September to December and March to April
are normally the periods with optimum diving
conditions: comfortable, with mild currents,
good visibility and calm waters, though some
of the dive sites are subject to stronger
currents that make them suitable for
experienced divers only.
Depth: 5 - >40m
Visibility: 15 - 30m
Currents: Gentle, but can be strong
Surface Conditions: Calm
Water Temperature: 26 - 29°C
Experience Level: Intermediate -
advanced
Number of dive sites: >30
Dry season in the Banda
Sea is approximately from May to November,
with more likelihood of rain from December
to April and a high rainfall in January and
February. The temperature is quite constant
between 27°C and 32°C with refreshing
breezes on board throughout most of the
season. The climate is primarily determined
by monsoon winds more predictable in the
north than the south.
There are several
different points of access by boat. While
some trips begin in Raja Ampat and others in
Alor and Flores, the most common access is
from Ambon.
Flights: – daily to Ambon from the major
airports in Indonesia - Jakarta, Bali, and
Manado - all via Makassar (Ujung Pandang).
October to January
The Mutiara Laut is crossing
the Banda Sea on her way to the “Ancient
Spice Island” in the Mollucas ans sails into
the most breathtaking area of Irian Jaya and
Raja Ampat
Departure
port: Sorong or
Timika (West Papua)
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